20 Makeup Tips for Gorgeous Skin
How to even out skin tone with foundation, concealer, blush
People tell me all the time I have great skin, which takes me by
surprise because I think I have ruddy skin and dermatologists (the
famous ones I get to meet as a beauty editor) always say the same thing.
Somehow I have non-famous people convinced I have great skin. I chalk
this up to regular use of Retin-A (my secret to anti-aging) and this bevy of tips I've accrued over the years.
Get skin in tip-top shape
The No. 1 rule I've learned as a beauty editor is the healthier your
skin, the less makeup you'll require. If you cleanse, exfoliate and
hydrate skin, you'll notice over time you don't need much concealer and
very little foundation.
Always slather on primer or moisturizer before foundation
If you apply a primer to your face first, your concealer and foundation
will glide on smoothly instead of settling into your fine lines or
wrinkles. Moisturizer works, too, just not as well. The trick is to
apply foundation within a minute of the primer or moisturizer
application -- you don't want it to soak into skin completely.
Apply concealer BEFORE foundation
Once you apply concealer, you won't need as much foundation, according
to makeup artist Bobbi Brown. Use concealer under eyes, along the nose
and on the chin.
When you do apply concealer, pay special attention to the red areas
around the nose. Dot concealer on these areas and then step back and
look at how much brighter your face is (please also write to me and
inform me of how genius I am).
Avoid full foundation coverage
Few people need to apply foundation all over the face -- a look I lovingly call "cake face".
Apply where you have uneven skin tone (usually along your nose). In
wintertime, if your cheeks tend to get ruddy, apply there as well. For
more sheer, natural coverage, consider a tinted moisturizer, which goes
on much lighter than typical foundations.
Blend foundation correctly
If you do want more coverage, use a foundation brush (more on this
below) and always start in the center of your face, blending outward.
Pay special attention around the neck, otherwise people will see the
line where you stopped, giving you a "mask face." (Full disclosure: I
went around with mask face my entire sophomore year of high school).
Pick the proper color and formula for your skin type
Choose a color that's as close to your natural skin tone as possible.
Never try to darken your complexion with foundation, it will look very
obvious (use a bronzer
for a sun-kissed look). But do consider two shades of foundation: One
for summer when skin is naturally darker, and one for winter when skin
is lighter. Mix them in the in-between months.
For oily skin, go for a matte foundation. Dry skin? Try a hydrating
formula. One last tip: It's a myth to test foundation colors on the back
of your hand. The best spot is actually along your jawline, according
to Allure's Linda Wells, in her book, Confessions of a Beauty Editor.
Use a sponge, a brush OR your fingers
There's really no right or wrong way to apply foundation. It's just by
preference. Some makeup artists prefer foundation brushes to apply
foundation (I loved Trish McEvoy's foundation brush until I lost it).
A brush allows you to get into all the nooks, crannies and pores on your
face. To do this, put a glob of foundation or tinted moisturizer on the
back of your hand and dab in a foundation brush
(I like MAC brushes), then apply to face. Other makeup artists believe
using your fingers warms up the foundation, which helps it melt into
your skin better. A sponge provides a great even coverage. It's up to
you which you prefer.
Don't throw out wrong-toned foundations and concealers
Finding the right color foundation and concealer can be daunting, which
is why I suggest you get professional help at Sephora or a makeup
counter at a department store. This way you can try before you buy. But
if you do have a few foundations and concealers that are just a bit off,
do like the makeup artists and blend a couple of mismatched colors for
the perfect one.
How to conceal dark under-eye circles
According to makeup artist Anthea King in InStyle magazine, you want to
neutralize dark under-eye circles with peach- or yellow-tone concealers.
Dab concealer on the inner corner of the eye by tapping it into place
(never run a concealer on like you would sunscreen or foundation).
Don't be afraid of bronzers
Nothing warms the face more than a bronzer. Make sure to use a big makeup brush
(again, putting in my plug for MAC brushes) and a light touch. Apply to
all the spots where the sun hits: Forehead, cheeks and nose. For more
"pop," blend a creamy blush on top.
Avoid "cake face"
Oily face? Make sure to blot oil before powdering or your skin will look cakey. Try a powder-free blotting sheet.
Set makeup with a primer
Primers are a relatively new
"must-have" trend in the beauty world. They act like spackle: They
moisturize, plump the skin and fill in any fine lines, pores and
wrinkles so your foundation won't settle into them.
At first I was skeptical but then a makeup artist talked me into the
beauty editor's All-Time Favorite foundation primer from Laura Mercier.
Cha-ching! The primer is oil-free, which means it contains no oils, a
bonus for my oily skin. I bought it and use it daily underneath my
tinted moisturizer.
Natural oils are not bad
Speaking of oily skin, I'm no fan
of the cakey, too-powdered look. Don't be afraid of your skin's natural
oils. I prefer my face to have some sheen, which I think looks more
"dewy" -- plus, keep in mind oily skin tends to develop fewer lines than
dry skin.
If you have oily skin, apply an oil-free primer before your foundation
to keep makeup in place (see my advice on primers above), then powder
only the nose and chin. Keep a pack of blotting tissues in your purse to blot excessive oils.
Evian spray is a God-send
After you apply makeup, spray Evian water spray on your face to get the
perfect dewy non-cake face. Get Evian spray at any drugstore. You can
also apply a pea-sized dot of moisturizer on a sponge and lightly apply
to forehead and cheeks.
Get rid of the "ashy" look
If you have dark skin, you may
notice your skin can get ashy. Combat it with a cream highlighter. Apply
concealer to upper corners of lips where skin tends to be darker.
Tone down ruddy skin
If you have ruddy (red) skin, tone it
down with a yellow- or green-based foundation. Pink-based foundations
and tinted moisturizers will only worsen your red complexion. Also, try
yellow-based blushes, such as apricot, instead of a pink tone.
Highlighters add depth to skin
I love the way highlighters
can minimize your worst features while enhancing others. Apply just
above the eyes for a wide-awake look and use to contour around the
cheeks. A makeup artist's favorite (and mine, too) is Yves Saint Laurent Touche Eclat concealer. Makeup artist Jo Strettel swears by this in Elle Magazine because it's easy to use: You simply paint it on the face.
Create instant cheekbones
Add contour and depth to cheekbones
by applying a bronzing powder over cheeks, forehead and nose (where the
sun naturally hits), then applying a cream blush on cheeks over this.
Instead of applying blush into the apples of your cheeks, dot the cream
along your cheekbone, then blend in well.
Darken your ultra-white skin
Does your skin get super white? Add color and shimmer to it with Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse.
Yes, everyone can wear blush
I have ruddy skin and thought I
never needed blush and the makeup artist at Bobbi Brown agreed, until
she applied a tinted moisturizer first. The moisturizer toned down my
ruddiness enough that she NEEDED to add a blush which subsequently gave
me a healthy flush.
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